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Day Eight - 13th Sept. 2009 - Goodbye Chiang Mai

Lazy day. It's our final day here in Chiang Mai. Tomorrow morning we fly to Ko Samui for some beach action.

 

After breakfast I checked my email and waiting for me was a message from Nong regarding the price to ship the paintings back to Paris. Yesterday she gave us an indication of the price to send four paintings back to Paris which was in the region of 70 Euros. However she had to confirm the actual price with TNT due to the fact that the paintings are very big but also very light. Apparently this fact may affect the price. Well it did affect the price… greatly. The confirmed price for packing and sending the paintings was an eye watering 240 Euros! That put the brakes on that project for sure!

 

It was HOT in Chiang Mai today. Probably in excess of 33 degrees. In order not to exert ourselves too much we took a short walk around the town, did a little bit of shopping and then headed to the massage parlor.

 

Our plan (or at least my plan) was to ease myself into the ancient Thai tradition of painful massage and start with a simple oil massage. When asked what treatment I wanted I told the lady as such and Gisela trumped me and asked for a Traditional Thai massage (the one where they bend you in half and then drop you off a building) Not wanting to look weak I instantly changed my mind and immediately regretted it.

 

However my fears we unfounded. Although a little painful it wasn't as bad as it looks on the posters on the wall which demonstrate the various moves they do on you. Put simply they lay you on your back, with pressure massage every muscle in your back and head (including your ear lobes), spin you over and do the same on your front side, then she sits on you and twists your body 180 degrees. It was great! Afterwards Gisela and I agreed that it was like wearing someone else's muscles. Im not sure how it feel tomorrow morning though.

 

To recover we headed to the Hot Chilli restaurant for lunch. I had stir fried Morning Glory again (my latest favorite veggie… which I leant today is in fact classified as a weed and is illegal to grow in the USA. In Europe and Asia is known as water spinach, water morning-glory, water convolvulus, Ong-Choy, Kang-kung, or swamp cabbage) with a fruit salad that comprised melon, apple, pineapple, tomatoes, onion & prawns all marinated in green chilli! It was probably the hottest dish id had in a long time. Gisela had chilli bean salad and stir fried veggies with chicken… all washed down with a couple of beers.

 

Time to recover so we hit the pool for the final time… like I said it was HOT HOT HOT today!

 

In Chiang Mai there is a street called Sunday Walking Street. Every Sunday there is a market along this street. Hundreds of stalls sell the usual Thai stuff to locals and tourists alike. Handicrafts, t shirts, paintings, shoes, children's toys etc. We took a walk along the 1km or so of Sunday Walking Street, a little shopping and a drink or two in the Writers Club & Wine bar followed by the The Garden (two great bands)

 

Back to the hotel, pack and get ready for the next stage of our Thai adventure… Ko Samui.

 

Happy days!appy days!

 

Lah Gorn!

 

Jason & Gisela

 

 

Today's Addresses

 

Hot Chilli

Kad Klang Wiang,

Ratchadamnoen Rd.,

Muang,

Chiang Mai

Tel: +66 53 326 584

 

Health Massage

(just next door to the Hot Chilli)

 

The Writers Club & Wine Bar

The Garden

Sunday Walking Street

Chiang Mai

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Day Seven. 12th Sept. 2009 - Vegging out in Chiang Mai

We are surprised that we're not in as much pain as we thought we would be in following our 10km rafting experience yesterday! I was half expecting to be hobbling around the hotel all day today. As it turns out we are both in pretty much top condition!

We didn't plan any major activities for today; there were a couple of missions we had to tie up first. Firstly we made our way back to the Old Chiang Mai Café to meet with a lady called Thitrat Unawatewanich a.k.a Nong. Nong is the marketing manager for Angel freight (Chiang Mai branch office) as well as proprietor of the noodle restaurant across the street from our hotel. She will manage the delivery of the paintings that we are looking to purchase from the Old Chiang Mai Café.  If she gives us a good price the plan is to return to the café on Sunday, pay for the paintings and then leave them in the hands of Nong for delivery to Paris.

The second and final mission of the day was to arrange the hotel for our time in Ko Samui. We are flying south on Monday morning. We have organized a very nice hotel on the beach in Ko Samui for 4 days as we will probably move onto the one of the smaller islands off Ko Samui (www.kosamui.com/)  for the remainder of our time in the south of Thailand prior to returning to Bangkok… and then to Paris.

A quite afternoon sitting around the pool and then off to dinner. We heard of a vegetarian restaurant in Chiang Mai called A Taste from Heaven. We read about it in the Lonely Planet guide which is normally a reason NOT to visit. It was great! In fact I thought it was the best restaurant we had visited so far in Thailand, Gisela thought that ALL of the restaurants we have visited were great but she is always (well mostly) over positive. We started with fresh spring roll (not the fried ones), mushroom cakes with peanut sauce, chili fried Morning Glory (a vegetable similar to spinach) and something called Hot & Spicy which was basically a Thai veggie stir fry with rice washed down with a couple of Mojitos and Singha beers. Highly recommended! Some of the profits go to an Elephant rescue park as well.

On the way back to the hotel we spotted a bar on the top floor of one the buildings near the old city walls and decided to investigate. The bar was a very nice hippy spot with a DJ, low tables and rugs to sit on. They put up numerous signs… do not steel this… do not steel that… no drugs (the cops come once in a while) etc. It was a very nice end to the day prior to returning to the hotel hot and tired.

Good night.

Jason & Gisela

 

Today's Addresses

Taste from Heaven

237 – 239 Th Tha Phae

Chiang Mai

 

THC Roof Top Bar & Restaurant

Exit the Pha Pae Gate,

Look right then Up.

You will see the colored lights on top of the building.

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Day Six. 11th Sept. 2009 - Wet

Another early start because today was elephant and white water rafting day. We met the mini bus at 9am and joined 15 long faced French, Belgium and Canadian students for the 90 minute trip to the location where we were to spend the day.  The journey was fine albeit rather hot and humid; the worst part however was the combined aroma of 30 unwashed European feet! When we did arrive we were dropped off at the elephant park whilst the rest of the team continued onwards to their respective activities.

The elephant park was nice enough. They had 10 or so of the beasts mooching around, some taking cover from the sun beneath the trees. Today we were to take a quick ride on an elephant, feed them some bananas and generally hanging around looking at the big beasts for an hour or so. After purchasing a bunch of some of the most expensive bananas in the history of Thai bananas we were taken to our trusty steed. Gisela and I hopped on board on off we went. This is just about the point where we (and especially Gisela) objected. In order to get the animal moving the pilot hit the poor creature over the head with a metal hook! It didn't sound very nice when he did it and I suppose it didn't feel too nice for the poor elephant. Gisela complained to the pilot and almost instructed him to turn around. However she didn't. Quite frankly we didn't have much choice, the path we took was small and the elephant was, clearly, very big. Once we got mobile the pilot didn't really bother the elephant except to shout at it once or twice. I think partially due to Gisela's protestations.

Besides, riding on the back of an elephant isn't that much fun anyway. I wouldn't recommend it. Firstly it's uncomfortable and secondly you don't really see anything more than if you just walked the route by foot, and thirdly you can't really see the elephant anyway (believe it or not)

We then fed the elephants with a few bananas which they seemed to enjoy and the driver collected us to join the rest of the team at the start of the white water rafting course.

Upon arrival we were given a tutorial of how to control the raft. In order to do this one of the instructors decided to use the opportunity to practice his English and deliver these very important, safety tips. His English was OK but I could barely understand him; the French and the Belgium folks looked particularly confused, I don't think they understood a word the instructor said. I was really hoping NOT to be put in the same boat as those guys!

A dinner of rice, omelette and triple boiled veggies followed (not the best lunch I've had in Thailand!) and we headed to our vessels. Myself and Gisela were very fortunate to be put in a boat with two, very happy and very positive sisters from Ireland. I was relieved and really quite pleased I think we had a good crew for the trip and the captain of our raft was excellent!

The course was 10km long split into 5 rapids and periods of just floating or swimming. The rapids were B-R-I-L-L-I-A-N-T, the captain knew exactly what he was doing and our crew rowed like professionals. It's a shame there were only 5 rapids, I could have easily done another 5! At the end it was oar high-fives all around. Everyone seems to enjoy the trip (except of course the Belgium students… 'c'est normal' according to Gisela… maybe the water was too wet for them? )

Back to the mini bus and the 90 minute trip back to our hotel in Chiang Mai. All-in-all a most excellent day!

Walking through the hotel to our room I felt that one of my legs was lower than the other. Upon closer inspection, I found that the sole of my left shoe was missing! My 2 euro Bangkok shoe purchase had eventually lost its will to live.

I lost my sole in the front seat of a Thai mini bus.

Jason & Gisela (happy to have pizza for dinner tonight)

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Day Five. 10th Sept. 2009 - Thai food at the Asia Scenic Thai cooking school

Although Chiang Mai is the second largest city in Thailand only 170,000 people live here which means it's pretty quiet, especially this time of the year. Therefore during your visit you have to plan your days and organize activities. Unless of course temples are your thing.

Today's activity was Thai cooking. We took a half-day cooking class at the Asia Scenic Thai cooking school. The class is run by a very friendly and enthuestic lady called Gayray. We were picked up from our hotel and taken to the cooking school and after meeting our fellow students, Arial (Argentinean) & David (Italian) from Spain, Oliver & Louise from South Wales, we headed out to the market. Gayray explained some of the finer points of rice and noodle varieties and we toured the market for 20 or so minutes prior to returning to the school for some hot cooking action.  Before cooking, we then had a tour of the organic herb garden and an explanation of the main herbs used in Thai cuisine.

So, the concept of the course was to choose 3 items to cook and eat from 5 categories (Appetizer, Noodle, Stir fried, Soup and Dessert) and then a curry paste and a curry. I chose spring rolls, Pad Thai and sweet & sour (the classics) whilst Gisela went for the Glassnoodle salad, Pad see wu and Hot basil stir fry, for the curry course I went for green curry with egg plant and tofu, Gisela selected Khaw soi with chicken.

Gayray explained how to cook each of the dishes and provided the ingredients and off we went to our respective woks. All of the recipes were highly successful; the spring rolls crispy, Gisela's stir fry was excellently cooked and the curry was top class. After each dish we sat down to eat prior to cooking the next course. We took the half day course which is more than enough. We left at 2pm completly full with good Thai food and left the remaining folks to finish with a soup and dessert. If you should decide to take such a course I recommend the half day version… unless you are a big eater!

After a dip in the pool and a spot of sunbathing we headed out to arrange tomorrows activities; more on that subject tomorrow.

Gisela wanted a pedicure so we headed off to the nearest Spa and Massage called Baan Lanna. Whilst Gisela had a pedicure I tried out a Thai foot massage. The masseur starts by washing your feet in lime water and then gives them a quick run with alcohol. Then for 30 minutes per foot she massages some Thai herbal lotion on your feet, in between your toes and ten uses a pencil shaped implement to apply all over the foot and in between your toes. Finally finishing by giving the feet and legs a good physical beating with her clenched fist. For a little lady with a big smile she was pretty strong. I didn't quite realize how strong until she finished me off with a neck and back massage which was quite possibly one of the most painful experiences I've had in a very long time. Afterwards however I felt like I was wearing someone else's feet and I'd been beaten around the neck with a goal post.

Well worth 4 Euros! (I think)

This is the start of my Thai massage experiment. I'm psyching myself up for the real traditional Thai massage; the one where they bend you over in half (the wrong way) and drag you through a burning fire of hot coals. That one is for another day.

We (well I at least) hobbled back to the hotel for a cocktail on the balcony before heading out to another night market for dinner.

The night market is really for the tourists of Chiang Mai but if you walk past the main market and follow the Changklan Road and the Wichayanon Road for another kilometer or so you will reach a second market called the Warorot market. This is where the locals shop. We were the only foreigners on the market. I thought there was a lot of fake stuff on the night market but it seems that everything on this market is fake: bags, shoes, jeans, perfumes, watches… everything was a rip off of something. You can even buy fake perfume by the liter, choose one or many bottles for the perfume and they will fill them for you on the market stall. We also saw puppy dogs with prices on their foreheads. A bargain at 800 Bhat (16 Euros) I was all for buying one but Gisela was no so keen… something about planes and customs worried her.

 Close to the market, there is a very old and very nice café called The Old Café of Chiang Mai. They sell a lot of local artists work here. We found 4 very large paintings (one of an elephant and a gold and red lotus triptych) we are hoping to buy the paintings and have them shipped back to Paris. If we are successful these will be a gift from Jason's parents!! More updates on Saturday when we go back to the café to meet the artist.

Following the visit to Warorot market we ran into our fellow cookery students David and Arial who were doing some last minute shopping prior to heading south. A quick beer, goodbyes and back to the hotel!

Jason & Gisela (on the terrace enjoying a final beer of the day)


Today's addresses

Asia Scenic Thai cooking school
31 Ratchadamnern Soi 5,
Muang district,
Chiang Mai
Tel +66 84 6400 988
www.asiascenic.com
gayray@asiascenic.com

Baan Lanna Spa & Massage
89/1-2 Ratchpakeenai Road
Phrasing Muang
Chiang Mai
Tel +66 83 864 2098

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Day four - 9th Sept. 2009 - 16 hours on the Chiang Mai express

It's a good job we didn't take the local train. After 16 hours on the Chiang Mai express we have arrived.

 

Apparently last night when everyone was sleeping the train encountered a mechanical problem of some sort. The result of this problem was a delay of around 3 hours in our arrival time. We should have arrived at Chiang Mai at 8.30am but instead we arrived at around 11.30am. This in itself was no major problem as we are hardly in a rush and in fact was probably a useful delay as we probably would not have been able to check in to the hotel so early anyway. Besides it gave us even more opportunities to look at little villages in the jungle, the scrawny cocks, skinny cows, three legged dogs and one eyed farmers.

When we did arrive we said our goodbyes to Jules and Giovanni and wed left the two new friends to fend for themselves.

As with most Asian countries when you arrive at any train station you get mobbed by taxi drivers offering their services, this is probably one of the trickiest parts of the journey. We quickly identified the most trustworthy looking driver (who happened to be a one eyed taxi driver) and exited the station for our hotel.

 

We are staying in a hotel called Bodhi Seren. This place lives up to its name! It's very quiet, the staff are very friendly. Everything about the hotel is serene. The people of Chiang Mai are supposed to be some of the most peaceful and friendly in Thailand. You hardly ever get hassled here by Tuk Tuk drivers and the like and if you and you turn down their services the driver smiles back at you like he's just won the Euro Millions.

 

Chiang Mai is the Buddhist temple capital of Thailand. After a quick lunch Gisela headed back to the hotel pool whilst I investigated some of the local Buddhist action. There are only so much Buddha's I can take so once I was templed out I headed back to the pool to join Gisela.

 

Every night in Chiang Mai there is a 'night market'. The night market is huge and mostly consists of Thai handicrafts, clothing and most of all fake tee shirts, bags, watches etc. anything with a logo on can be found at this market and if it has a logo on It's fake. As my 1 euro flip flops that I purchased in Bangkok are at the end of life stage already I brought a brand new pair of Birkenstock shoes for the bargain price of 4 Euros. I hope they manage to last the remainder of the trip but at this price I can renew them every day!

 

Back to the hotel via Tuk Tuk for dinner at the 'Hot Chili'; steamed fish in banana leaf for me and Patai noodles for Gisela.

 

Another day in the bag!

 

Jason & Gisela

 

 

 

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Day Three - 8th Sept. 2009 - Big Buddha

Our first day of sightseeing since arriving in Bangkok. The jet lag has receded and we managed to sleep an entire night. It's time for some serious Thai culture. In fact we only managed to visit one place today but it was pretty impressive. We spent a few hours at the site of the world famous, 65 meter long, solid gold Reclining Buddah. The site is called Wat Phra Chetuphon.

Around Bangkok there are a number of small restaurants known as Shophouses (not chophouses as I originally thought). These are old buildings from the days of the Portuguese colonial times that are now often turned into little bars and cafes. One such shophouse near Wat Phra Chetuphon is called Rub-ar-roon Cafe (Maharaj Road) this oasis offers rest bite and relief from the heat and humidity in the form of a few Singha beers and some tasty Tom Yam (spicy Thai soup). Once refueled we headed back to the next available boat stop via the dried fish market and the Indian flower market. I particularly like hanging around markets and this one was great. In fact I could have mooched around this place all day but as usual we were on a schedule. It appeared that these markets were really for wholesales purchases and not the general public, however, and this is one thing about the Thai people I particularly like, no one really cared or even noticed two foreigners rummaging around the piles of dried fish and chillies.

Off to Chiang Mai! As I mentioned yesterday we didn't manage to get a first class cabin so we took our places in the almost empty second class sleeper. Other than a couple of American ladies from Hawaii our only neighbor was... yes... a French guy (a 20 year old who dropped out of university to join the army who goes by he name of Jules) Wherever I go I end up sitting next to a French guy! We were settled in our seats and the very friendly and toothless cabin attendant arrives to take our dinner order. Veggie for me and Prawns for Gisela (which in fact turned out to be both Beef and Chicken). We opened the wine, order the beer and its full steam to Chiang Mai!!

As the night wore on we shared our wine with Jules, then opened the whiskey and almost immediately we attracted a motley crew from our carriage and beyond. After not very long our team comprised me (Jason), Gisela, Jules, Giovanni from Milan, Joaquin from Brussels and three other Belgium folks I cant remember the name of.

On the train they put you to bed pretty early. All of the seats are converted to beds so we finished off the scotch and in order not to disturb the rest of the travelers we headed to the restaurant car for some beers. When we got there we found all of the staff out of their official uniforms and relaxing in civilian clothing. They were trying to watch some Thai movie on a little colour portable TV when us 8 Europeans stormed the carriage. I brought beers for the staff and the team. However just like they sent you bed early they also closed the restaurant car early so come 10pm they closed up shop and sent us on our way. The Belgium's looked desperate because they wanted a final cigarette and they had just brought a round of large Chang beers. We left them to it and that was that for the evening. By 10.30pm we were happily tucked up in our bunks.

Jason & Gisela
(seats 38 and 40, coach 4 on the Chiang Mai express)

Today's address
Rub-ar-roon Cafe
310-312 Maharaj Road
Phra Nakorn
Bangkok
10200

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Day Two - 7th Sept. 2009. Mr. Song

Around this time of the year on a river in Kenya there is a herd of wildebeest making their annual migration. Waiting at the river are hundreds of crocodiles (or maybe alligators... i'm not sure of the difference). The resulting feeding frenzy provides the crocodiles with enough food for a year.
It's the same with me and suites. Today Gisela and I visited my usual tailor in Bangkok; Mr.A Song. I admit that I've only been to one tailor in the past but Mr. Song is most certainly the best. He's super professional, very friendly and has great prices (Around 100 Euros for a suite depending on the selected material) I now have at least one year's worth of suites, Gisela has asked him to clone her Vivien Westwood skirt and Flo has a very nice new linen dress.

Following the visit to Mr. Song we had to complete one final administrative task; the train to Chang Mai. Tomorrow we will travel 700KM by train to the 'largest and most culturally significant city in Northern Thailand' (according to Wikipedia) I really wanted to take a first class cabin but unfortunately they were full so we opted for the second class sleeper. So the plan is to leave at 6.30pm and arrive in Chang Mai at 7.30am. Having never took a train in Thailand I have little to no idea what to expect. Expect an update tomorrow.

After that session of hot and heavy work we simply had to stop at the Oriental hotel for a refreshing beer on the river side.

Lunch today consisted of red Thai curry with Prawns followed by a Singha beer on the balcony of our room.

After a rest by the pool we ventured out once again to another cool Bangkok location; the 59th floor of the Banyan Tree hotel for Gin and Tonic. For obvious reasons the bar is called Vertigo. You have to see it to believe it! After a the Vertigo apero it was back to the hotel resto for dinner once again via the Oriental for a final riverside beer. Although a very pleasent stop off this time it was a forced one. Bangkok tip: the river boats finish at 7.30PM (at least they do in September) so in order to take a taxi or haggle with a Tuk Tuk driver.

Dinner for me was deep fried Channa fish with chilli and Lemon grass, and for Gisela fried (feet sized) Prawns with Chilli.

Next step Chiang Mai.

Today's addresses
A. Song Tailor
8 Soi Charoenkrung 38
Bangkok
10500
Tel: +66 (0) 2235 2753

The Mandarin Oriental
48 Oriental Avenue
Bangkok, 10500
Tel:+66 (2) 6599 000
www.mandarinoriental.com

Vertigo at the Banyan Tree
21/100 Sathon Road
Bangkok
10120
www.banyantree.com/bangkok

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Day One. 6th Sept. 2009. Arrival in Bangkok

The flight wasn't the worst long haul (11 hours) journey that I've ever
taken but it certainly wasn't the best. Despite Gisela's attempts to get
upgraded we still only managed to get two seats together on the plane
which somehow counted as a luxury but all in all we arrived in Bangkok
in once piece and, it must be said, a little grumpy and jet lagged.

We arrived at 6am local time (midnight Paris time) and after a minor scare
relating to visas (luckily you don't need a visa to get into Thailand) we
arrived at the hotel only to find out that we couldn't check-in until 12pm!.

The only option we had do was to walk around the area and rest by the pool
on the top floor of our hotel.
 
The hotel is very nice (Navalai River Resort) It has the river but I'm
not convinced about the Resort bit. Any way it's very nice; central
location, 20th Century amenities and provides a balcony on the river front.
 
After a lunch of spicy fish soup for me and spicy Thai shrimp salad for
Gisela (I read somewhere that eating hot and spicy food on hot days
cools you down. It doesn't by the way... it just make you hotter!) we
are set for our Thai Adventure.
 
Jason & Gisela
 
ps. Eric & Viv.. the Sancerre you invited us to was successfully transported
from France and enjoyed on the balcony of our hotel room!! Merci Eric &
Viv!!

 
 
Today's address
Navalai River Resort
45/1 Phra Athit Road
Nakorn
Bangkok
10200

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Gisela and Jason's BIG day!!

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